Ocho Rios is the only port we visit that rates a special warning from the captain to all going ashore. The message: stick to major tourist areas and don't go off on your own.
Most crew I talk to have long ago stopped going ashore in Jamaica.
Jamaica's crime statistics are notorious, but I don't think that's what makes it the least liked port among the crew. It's the sheer unpleasantness of the place. Noisy, dirty, and full of people who won't let you alone. And you have to pay to visit the beaches which are protected by barbed wire fences. Sorry, Jamaica, but that's how it is.
As you leave the port area to turn onto Main Street (yes!) the harassment begins.
“What you lookin' for? Weed? Blow? Girls?” A street denizen grabs my arm, which I quickly retract as I keep walking. I ignore these creeps, but doing so sometimes results in accusations of being a racist. I ignore that too. Then there are the eyless and legless beggars, and children trying to look pitifuly poor, but really just learning the trade.
It's like running the gauntlet, trying to get from the ship to downtown Ocho Rios. And then when you get there, you wonder why you even wanted to go in the first place. It's dirty, ugly, and dangerous, and there's little to do except remain vigilant.
I bet you can hardly wait to go.
Ocho Rios is famous because Ian Fleming had a house there (you know, the author of the James Bond books) and one of the James Bond movies was shot there.
Of course the most famous resident was Bob Marley. There's a really ugly statue of him in the tourist mall near the dock. There's also a Bob Marley novelty shop selling, among other things, a molded figurine of the dead star with a really big, ah, member. Such reverence!
According to one book I looked in to learn a little about Ocho Rios there are some serious environmental issues there due to the mining and processing of bauxite by the Reynolds company (whose sluice down the side of a hill figured prominently in one of the more exciting scenes in the James Bond movie).
What more could you want in a vacation destination?
I have heard rumours that the company has thought about eliminating Ocho Rios from the itinerary because of complaints from the cones, but there's no alternative port to use in this part of the Caribbean. Royal Caribbean ships don't go to Cuba.
I wish I could say nicer things about Jamaica, because I know some great people who come from there (but they're not there now, are they?). It's also got a strong musical and literary culture. I know it just can't be as bad as it seems here in Ocho Rios.
Wednesday, January 05, 2005
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4 comments:
I just read your Ocho Rios report. I cycled from end to end on Jamaica
in 1994. We stayed in quite a few places both tourist areas, inland areas,
and ports on the east end, so I got a good feel for much of the island.
A universal truism is to avoid tourist areas anywhere on earth if you want
to avoid the lay-abouts and scam artists who prey on the novice traveller.
I had a guy with his hand inserted into my pack on my back trying to scavenge
around for loose valuables while walking out of the airport in Addis Ababa.
Only a threat of violence deterred him.
In Timbuktu the Tuareg nomads surrounded the table in our restaurant
with endless pleas to buy their wares. We were unable to see our dinners
because necklaces were held in front of our faces. We had to tell the restaurant
owner to make them scarce.
The streets of Katmandu are so bad, lots of tourists wear T-shirts with:
"No Rickshaw
No Drugs
No Postcard
No Carpet
No Tiger Balm
No Change Money
No Problem"
written on the front and just keep pointing to it.
So back to Jamaica... I found most of Jamaica very relaxed and friendly.
Only in Negril and Ocho Rios were we accosted, but even then it was a
few notches below Katmandu or Timbuktu. The most offensive part of Ocho
were the prices. They were double or more for a meal. We did go out for one
dinner, but you could get food in some of the local take-out stores (locals
mostly) for very little.
Maybe it's just me, but I didn't find Jamaica dangerous at all. We avoided
Spanish Town and Kingston, which is really the only truly dangerous part.
A great place to go is Port Antonio, east of Ocho. It's the old tourist area of
Jamaica from the days when the only way of getting there was on a banana boat.
That's where the banana boats go because it's wet and bananas grow there.
That's were Errol Flynn's island is. His former cook made us lunch in a local
restaurant. It's on the north side of the Blue Mountains, and the view from
our hotel was as advertised. (Bonnie View Hotel) I was apparently only the
second cyclist ever to climb the hill up without walking. Roughly a half kilometer
or so at about 50% grade (and wet).
We also stayed about half way between Ocho and Port Antonio in Port Maria
where Noel Coward's place was, and we had a drink in the 007 bar...
Also a nice quiet town with no hassles, friendly people, and good food.
For a quiet semi-arid location, nothing beats Treasure Beach on the south west.
But of course not enough room for thousands of cones at these places.
Keep up the blogging! Keep us up to date on the skating mishaps.
>>> John D. Ford
Skating mishaps... I wonder what could this man be talking about? :)
Thanks, John, for your response to my Ocho Rios post. It's really informative, and it confirms what I suspected, that Jamaica is a much 'kinder and gentler' place than you would guess if all you visited were the port areas.
Oh, and Paul, he's referring to the post in which I mentioned that a lot of ice skaters had been injured. I can't remember when that was, but it was a while back. Skating on a moving ship can be very dangerous!
Also, Paul, John was a strong Green Party candidate in Ottawa during the last election. If you're into bicycling, he's the guy to talk to!
Thanks, John, for your response to my Ocho Rios post. It's really informative, and it confirms what I suspected, that Jamaica is a much 'kinder and gentler' place than you would guess if all you visited were the port areas.
Oh, and Paul, he's referring to the post in which I mentioned that a lot of ice skaters had been injured. I can't remember when that was, but it was a while back. Skating on a moving ship can be very dangerous!
Also, Paul, John was a strong Green Party candidate in Ottawa during the last election. If you're into bicycling, he's the guy to talk to!
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